Grace coddington by helmut newton, oct 1973, vogue uk. "on set in the south of france, helmut newton declares the eveningwear shoot "bloody boring!" and calls for "something sexy".
Helmut newton's influence within fashion can hardly be overstated: not only are his erotically-charged images some of photography's most regularly referenced, but their risqué depiction of women shattered the taboos of their time. Nicknamed "the king of kink", his work proudly provocative, often drawing the ire of those who considered his depiction of women disempowering - but its glossy celebration of artifice enthralled plenty more than it engaged.